Dizzy from lack of sleep (I’ve just traveled 32 hours), I wait for my checked luggage. My large suitcase arrives. I pull it off the baggage carasoul. It feels remarkably light.

I wait for my backpack. I see a spot of purple and move closer. As I pick it up, I notice it’s very sticky. Oh no. Something has exploded.

I make my way through customs and immigration and head straight to the ladies’ bathroom. The bathroom attendent watches me silently as I empty out the contents of my backpack, liquid hair product dousing just about everything. One by one, I wash each item, then dry it under a not very strong warm current of air coming from the hand dryer. Half an hour later, I’m done.

As I’m leaving, she mumbles, “Welcome to South Africa…”