• The Elusive Northern Lights

    October 21, 2010
    Travel

    “Don’t you see them?”

    “No.”

    “Right there. A glimmer. Look.”

    I squinted my eyes then opened them wider. I focused on the area he was pointing to. And I didn’t see anything.

    “Here. Let me take a picture. Then maybe you’ll see them. Sometimes the lens of a camera sees more than the eyes of a human.”

    But that’s not what I wanted. I wanted the full, techni-color, dancing across the sky, visible to the naked eye version of the northern lights.He snapped a digital photo, the lens open for a quarter of a minute. He brought the display to me.

    “See? See? Right there – do you see a bit of green?”

    Again, I squinted. I turned the display to the left and to the right. I really didn’t see anything. But also didn’t want to appear to be contrary.

    “Maybe…”

    “Wait! Let’s go to the other side of the mountain!”

    And we were off. From one side of the mountain to the other. To the observatory hill, where NATO used to have operations. Through the tunnel, to a lookout spot high on the hill. And always the same. He claiming a slight glimmer, me dubious. In each new spot, we’d get out, walk around in the freezing temperatures, look from the mountains to the sea and back, then get back into the car. And watch. And wait. And watch. Then drive to another spot.

    After several hours of this, he suggested we call it a night. Disappointed, I agreed. Oh, northern lights.

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  • The Glacier Lagoon

    October 20, 2010
    Travel

    My guide, Odinn, greeted me at the small hotel in Hofn. “I will show you the northern lights,” he confidently assured me. That was good. That was one of the reasons I had chosen Iceland for vacation – a desire to see the magical northern lights, patterns dancing through the sky.

    “What will you do until tonight?” he asked. I must have had a questioning look upon my face, because he suggested I rent a car and drive to some of the nearby national parks in order to see more of the landscape. I sat there, perplexed. I had purposely chosen this particular tour because it said transfers, guides, and tours were included. I don’t like to drive. Driving tends to make me very sleepy. I had not planned on driving while in Iceland.

    I asked about the glacier hike that was included as part of the tour price. Odinn laughed. “Oh, no, not a glacier hike. A ticket to the Glacier Expedition. That’s a museum.”

    So, not what I was planning, I rented a car. And set out towards Jokulsarlon, hoping to see the majestic glaciers and the smaller floes at the glacier lagoon. Despite the cold, the sun shone brightly. As I drove along the main highway, the ring road, I didn’t encounter any other cars.

    I saw the sign pointing towards the right. Jokulsarlon. I arrived just in time for a boat tour. It was one of the boats on wheels, those amphibious vehicles that go from land to water to land. As the boat prepared to enter the lagoon, a smaller zodiac boat prepared the way for us, breaking the fine layer of ice that had formed on the surface.

    A thought suddenly struck me: Wasn’t this how the Titanic sunk? And I paid for this?

    After a few moments of mentally preparing myself for survival if I were to end up in the icy waters of the lagoon, I began to enjoy the ride. The light danced between ice floes, some dark, some white, some icy blue, some tiny, some large, some housing seals, others floating gracefully through the lagoon. It was an incredibly calming experience, on a boat, with only a few other people, in the middle of an expansive lagoon, listening to the ripple of the water and the distant calving of the glacier. Even though it wasn’t what I had planned, it was the perfect place to be.

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  • Day 1

    October 19, 2010
    Travel

    I wandered throughout the narrow streets of Reykjavik. The residential streets were lined with picture perfect houses in bold colors – deep reds, vibrant blues, evergreen greens. I meandered through the city center, noticing an abundance of restaurants and yarn shops. A fine mist turned into a heavier drizzle. I ducked into a cafe, welcoming the opportunity for a cup of tea and time to read my Icelandic mystery, Jar City. I couldn’t have dreamed of a more relaxing way to start a vacation.

    For dinner, I visited The Fish Market, a restaurant recommended to me by a colleague who had recently visited Iceland. I ordered the tasting menu, thinking I would taste small amounts of several culinary delights. Three hours later, more than satiated, I left the restaurant, having consumed:

    • crab legs with a herbed sauce
    • BBQ ribs with salmon salt
    • watermelon and avocado salad
    • sushi
    • grilled salmon over mashed potatoes with a porcini broth
    • pan-fried cod with Israeli couscous
    • slow roasted lamb with crisplings
    • dessert sampler of blueberry cobbler, chocolate cake, ginger souffle, mango sorbet, berry sorbet, and tropical fruits

    Not a bad way to start a vacation.

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  • Upon Arrival

    October 19, 2010
    Travel

    I did exactly what you’re not supposed to do when traveling through multiple time zones: I laid down. It was 8:30 am. I thought to myself, “I’ll rest just for a few minutes. Just test the bed. Half an hour max, then I’ll head down to breakfast.”

    I opened my eyes and noticed the time on the clock. 4 pm. I was very well rested for dinner.

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  • Love me, don’t eat me

    October 18, 2010
    Travel

    As I boarded the plane, I noticed all the seats had quotes on the headrests, mostly relating to phrases or sayings in Icelandic. This was mine:

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  • Modern Day Fairy Tale

    September 21, 2009
    Uncategorized

    Once upon a time, there was a girl named Maggie. Maggie liked lists a lot. More than lists, she liked fun. One day, she made a list of 100 things she wanted to do during her lifetime. One of the things on the list was to participate in a giant food fight.

    Several hundred of her closest friends received a Facebook invitation to participate in a giant food fight in a small park in San Francisco, bearing multiple tubs of Cool Whip. When invited, friends fell into one of three categories 1 – That’s the most awesome thing ever – I can’t wait for Saturday to arrive! 2 – That sounds pretty cool, I’ll come and watch or 3 – I’m not sure what I’m doing on Saturday, but it most definitely will not be that.

    About 50 of her adventuresome friends showed up at the appointed time, including a girl named Lori and a boy named Stas. The group bonded together to prepare the site. Tarps were laid and pegged; containers of Cool Whip and spray cans of whip cream opened and positioned around the edges of the tarp. Excitement filled the air as people prepared to battle.

    The call was given, and Cool Whip began to fly. Unbeknownst to most, Cool Whip catches air well and travels great distances when flung. Unbeknownst to most, Cool Whip + plastic tarp = hilarity. It’s one thing to watch slapstick comedy. It’s quite another to participate in it. The group of fifty was happy.

    In a matter of minutes, the Cool Whip was gone and the group was covered from head to toe in white goo. Laughter filled the air as people gathered the empty containers and rolled up the tarps.

    Stas approached Lori and pointed at his hand. She looked, noticing it, like the rest of him, was covered in Cool Whip. She also noticed that the wedding ring that he had received barely a month ago was not there. They stared at each other. This was not the happy ending they had hoped for.

    They surreptitiously search the trash and when the ring was not found Maggie took charge and organized a search party. The 50 people lined up across the area that moments before had been covered in Cool Whip. Inch by inch they searched the grass. Nothing was found.

    Someone shouted, “You should rent a metal detector.” “Yes! A metal detector!” echoed the crowd. The perfect solution to a ring lost in a field of grass. To everyone’s bewilderment, there are no businesses that rent metal detectors in San Francisco. So Stas drove an hour south to rent a metal detector (and the friendly proprietor threw in a poking stick for free). As he returned to the park, the fog rolled in over the hills. Cold and shivering, the search began.

    Stas’ wife, who did not participate in the Cool Whip fight, arrived with fleece. Lori, Stas, and Bryan, still with remnants of Cool Whip in their hair and behind their ears, pronounced her an angel as they layered in sweatshirts and jackets and scarves and hats.

    Dusk fell as they took turns using the metal detector, prodding the grass, and searching on hands and knees. Many dog owners frequented the park, throwing balls for their dogs to retrieve. Most eyed the search party suspiciously. As Lori passed by with the metal detector, one asked, “Did you lose something?” She looked at him quizzically and said, “A wedding ring.” He nodded. “I wondered. Your boots are too nice for you to be a homeless lady.” She assessed her mismatched, though warm, outfit and agreed.

    After hours of searching, with nothing found except one dirty quarter, the group abandoned the search and went to drown their sorrow in beer and sangria.

    Stas, the ringless husband, and Coreen, his beautiful wife, returned to the park the next morning to conduct one last attempt to search for the ring. They employed the metal detector again, talking to the dog owners as they surveyed the grass. Again, the search was futile. They left the park, sad they did not have the lost ring, but happy to have each other. Moments after leaving the park, they received a phone call from one of the dog owners, instructing them to return to the park. The ring was found!

    And everyone lived happily ever after. The end.

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  • Sometimes That Happens

    July 8, 2009
    Uncategorized

    My colleague is maneuvering through heavy traffic. It is start and stop, stop and go. We are stopped when we are rammed from behind. I snap my head around to see what monster of a vehicle has hit us. It’s a small tuk-tuk. My colleague does not get out of the car, doesn’t show any anger, doesn’t show any acknowledgment of the crash. I look over at him. He shrugs and says, “Sometimes that happens.” This is my new motto.

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  • July 3, 2009
    Uncategorized

    In the restaurant, I order Bengali fish curry. The waiter asks if I want rice or naan with it. I say neither. He says I have to order one, that I can’t just have the curry, that it’s meant to be eaten with rice or naan. “Fine,” I say, not really wanting either, but knowing it isn’t worth the fight, “I’ll have the naan.” He says, “No, madam, it’s never served with naan. That’s not a good choice. You must eat it with rice.”

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  • Crossing

    July 2, 2009
    Uncategorized

    We’re trying to cross the street. I take one step forward, then jump back as a tuk-tuk nearly runs over my toes. My colleague has gotten halfway across the street. He turns around and sees me continuing to stand on the side of the road. He comes back, grabs my hand and pulls me. “You just have to walk. The cars will not stop.” I simply close my eyes and trust I’ll get to the other side.

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  • July 1, 2009
    Uncategorized

    I’m sitting in one of the government schools we support with a library and books. The children are seated cross legged on the floor in their classroom, no desks available. They smile shyly and giggle and avert their eyes when I look at them. I ask them about their favorite stories and one by one, they come up and recite poems or re-tell their favorite tale. They’re speaking Hindi and Telugu and I’m mesmerized. They recite with such intensity and such seriousness. The girls have matching onyx braids, plaited and looped to form twin pigtails with strands of jasmine tucked in. Their outfits scream with color – fluorescent orange, deep crimson, brilliant turquoise salwar kameezes and dresses adorned with gold thread and sparkling jewels. The boys sport identical short spiky hair cuts, their spindly arms and legs protruding from dingy short sleeve shirts and navy shorts that are too big, gathered at the waist with a rope or belt. Their dark eyes appear so big in their tiny faces.

    After the last recitation, the teacher, a big serious man, calls a beautiful little girl to face me. She’s wearing an orange floor length skirt with tiny mirrors sewn along the hem. He stands behind her and lifts up her skirt above her knees. I’m taken aback. What is he doing? He jerks his head to her legs. “Look.” I see before me two tiny deformed legs, bowing outwards at unnatural angles from her knees. I lift my eyes to the girl’s face and she casts her eyes downward. I’m speechless. I don’t know why he is doing this. I want to scream, “What are you doing? Let the girl be. Why are you embarrassing her like this?” He says to me, “The water is contaminated. Fluoride. Her sister is the same.” This does not make sense to me. I sit there, still speechless, not sure what he is expecting or what is the appropriate thing to say in this situation.
    After a minute or so of silence, he says, “You will help her. You will fix her legs.”

    I continue to sit there, all eyes on me, all the children, all the school staff. I feel embarrassingly uncomfortable. I stammer, “Uh, uh…” How do I explain that I don’t have the connections to fix her legs? That I don’t know what her condition is, much less what could be done to fix them. I realize that they think I have access to unlimited resources. How do I explain I don’t? How do I respond to this request in a country where no one uses the word “no”? How do I not make promises that I know I cannot keep?

    I wish I could say that I responded with a culturally sensitive, gracious response. I wish I could say that the tense silence was broken with the girl understanding that I wanted to help, but I didn’t know how. Instead, I, like the girl before me, cast my eyes downward.

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LoriLoo

How great would life be if we lived a little, everyday?

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    • In Memory of Jerry Eugene McLeese
 

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