I arrived to my hotel after almost a day of travel with one short flight, a short layover, one long flight, a considerable layover, a medium flight, and an hour drive. I had an hour before sunset.

I can hear the seagulls squawking from my balcony. Notes of live music float by. There’s an easy vibrancy in the air.

I wander down the narrow cobblestone streets, letting curiosity guide me. I turn the corner and see the streets full of people. Is it a celebration? No, it’s simply Saturday evening in Ericeira. People are sitting on benches overlooking the ocean, patiently waiting for the sun to set. Children zip by on skates and scooters, some simply running after others. Patrons spill out of a bar, where a live band is covering pop songs from the 70’s, and tipsy youngsters are belting out the chorus along with the band’s singer. A long line forms at Casa de Fernanda, each patron ready to enjoy ouriços, the delightful little pastry with a crispy outside and an oh so delicious almondy, eggy, sweet, gooey inside.

I am enamored.

I continue walking, and this scene plays out over and over through different parts of the little city. It seems like the whole town has poured into its narrow streets, enjoying each other’s company, enjoying life. From babies to grandparents and all ages in between. I find another bar along the water and order my favorite drink in Europe, a gin tonic. It’s served in an oversized wine goblet with so much ice and a slice of citron. I sit in my yellow plastic chair, watching the other tables. There are single parties, folks with their dogs, groups of four and more who have pulled multiple tables together.

I am relaxed.

I watch as the sun continues to drop until poof! it has sunk below the horizon. I drink the last of my gin tonic and wander the streets, excited to try local seafood for dinner. I arrive at the restaurant that has been recommended, Restaurante “A Panela”. After a while the owner comes over and asks what I would like. I tell him I’m allergic to bell peppers, I love all seafood, and I’d like for him to choose something delicious for me. It’s one of my favorite things to do – allow others to surprise me with a meal. After a while, he returns with a healthy glass of house white wine, a platter with a beautiful fried fish, a fresh salad, and perfectly cooked potatoes.

I am delighted.