To Market, To Market

My dad, as wonderful as he is, has absolutely no interest in shopping. Normally, I don’t either. But put me in a traditional market and I’m in heaven. The pungent odors, the narrow alleys, the chattering, growing louder and louder, the bantering and bargaining – I’m mesmerized, absolutely hypnotized.

While in Beijing, mom and I wanted to visit both the pearl and silk markets. Mr. Li, our helpful driver who had taken us to The Great Wall and the Summer Palace, volunteered to take us to the markets (at a price, of course). Thinking strategically, we decided to go to the Pearl Market first, since pearls were obviously smaller and lighter to carry, as we had a full day of shopping ahead of us. We arrived at 8:45 am, only to learn the Pearl Market didn’t open its doors until 9:30. Mr. Li told us not to worry, he would take us to the Silk Market, we could shop there, then return to the Pearl Market after it opened. On the map, the Silk Market appeared to be within walking distance. When I suggested to Mr. Li we walk, he scoffed, then drove us 45 minutes across town. He parked the car, led mom and me to the entrance of the market, then let us loose, telling us to take our time, he’d be in the car (must be a male thing). Mom and I wandered down the first alley, greeted by overzealous merchants grabbing our arms, pulling us to their booths. Booths of cashmere sweaters, pashminas, souvenirs, shoes, clothes, handbags, but no silk. I turned to mom, Maybe the silk is farther down, down another alley. Let’s keep going. We oohed and aahed over rugs, sequined handbags, delicate glass bottles painted from the inside, but no silk.

“Hey, lady, you want shoes-sa? I got your shoes-sa. Big shoes-sa, right here.” I was startled. I looked over to this tiny woman with the booming voice, and that was all the confirmation she needed. She pulled me over. “Which you like-a? Which-a?” I smiled. No, I really don’t think you have my size. “Yes-sa. I see you feet. You big feet. I have you size-sa.” I looked at mom. She shrugged. Was I really about to put myself through another humiliating retail experience? Yes, I was.

I pointed to a pair of delicate black mules. Those. Size 9 1/2. She disappeared behind a cloth, crouched down, rustle, rustle, rustle, and appeared with a box. I hesitantly accepted it. Could this really be true? Could I really find a pair of shoes in Asia? After 8 months of being ridiculed for my size, could I really be on the brink of purchasing something? Feeling like Cinderella, I slipped my foot into the right shoe. Oh. Too small. Thanks anyway. “No, lady. Wait-ta. Don’t go.” She once again crouched, parted the curtain, and disappeared. And came back with another box. Sure enough. They fit. Oh, glorious day. A new pair of shoes. Feminine shoes. Beautiful, black, dainty heeled, going out shoes. How much? “500 yuan.” I laughed out loud. No way. Thanks, though. “Hey, lady. Look-a. Gucci. Real. Real.” I looked at her. These are not real Gucci. They’re beautiful shoes, but they’re not Gucci. And they are *not* worth 500 yuan. “Okay, how much?” 50 yuan. “What? Lady, big shoes. Worth-a more than that.” 50. “400. Good price, just for you. Good morning price.” 50. “If afternoon, I charge you more. Now, good price. 300.” 50. “Look. Rainy day price. 200. Good price. You buy.” She tried to put the shoes in my hand. 50. “Let’s make deal. I give, you give. 100. Okay? Good price, lady.” I thought for a moment. 100 really wasn’t a bad price, just a little over $10, for a pair of shoes that made me feel elegant once again. That made me feel like I was an accepted part of the retail community, not an amazon for whom nothing fit. I was trying to think of the Chinese word for yes, thank you, when I heard. “Last price. 80. For you. Only you. Don’t you tell.” I smiled. I handed her the crumbled bills with a Xie Xie and I was off.

When mom and I returned to the car, we asked Mr. Li where the silk was. He laughed. “Only named silk market. Old days. Big market. Now, silk in big building right beside Pearl Market.” Of course. We should have known.